Deciding the design for your perfect jewellery piece is a road of almost infinite pathways. Ultimately you must love the way the piece looks but also think about the realities. Everyone wants a beautiful piece of jewellery that will stand the test of time. A loose, or even worse, lost gemstone is every girl’s, guys and even jeweller’s nightmare.
Settings are the ways in which jewellers secure stones into the metal base of a given piece of jewellery. As you browse through the Gemondo site, you will see an array of settings described on each piece. There are many different kinds of settings to choose from and to ensure you get the right setting for your jewellery we’ve explained a few that we use at Gemondo below.
The bezel setting is the oldest known traditional setting used throughout history to set gems into precious metal. A narrow, curved slip of metal is moulded into the shape of the gemstone that is to be set and then fused to the jewellery. The bezel can be partial or can wholly circumvent the stone depending on the design, specification and level of motion the jewellery may encounter. The stone is placed into the setting and then secured with an overlap of metal on the rim. The bezel setting is a tried and tested method, securing the gemstone with little movement possible.
The claw, or prong, setting method uses metal claws to hold the gemstone in place, thus displaying a larger proportion of the stone than other settings would allow. Claws are soldered from to the base of the piece and curved around the gem’s edges to fasten. Over time claws may need to be reviewed and replaced or reshaped by jewellers to ensure larger stones are sufficiently secure.
Channel settings describe many stones that are lined up and secured with an outline of metal on either side. The ‘channel’ refers to the metal that encases the gems. Small but accommodating bearings are created within each channel helping to suspend each gemstone in place. Channel settings lend themselves to classic and romantic designs such as eternity rings and engagement rings.
Pavé is essentially a type of bead setting. With a name derived from the French for ‘paving stone’ a pave setting describes gemstones set directly into the metal with only little space between each. Gemstone-shaped indentations are made, the stones pressed into the metal and then a little excess metal is pushed up over the stone to fasten. Pavé settings allow for many smaller stones to each flaunt their own little sparkle in unison, making them truly breathtaking when in motion. Pavé set gemstone jewellery pieces can also be playful, with designs in all sorts of vibrant colour, size and stone combinations. Due to the nature of this type of setting, ring resizing can be complicated if at all possible.
Why have the sparkle of only one diamond, when you can have the look of many? An illusion setting surrounds a gemstone, usually a small diamond, yet aims to give the impression and dazzle of many. An illusion setting is a great way to offer a precious diamond with sparkle and keep the costs down.
The countersunk jewellery setting is where the metal has an exact gemstone-shaped groove or dip inscribed into it whereby the stone can slot into. This is smoothed into the metal to ensure a precise verge.